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JKissane
Starting Member
22 Posts |
 Posted - 25/09/2009 : 15:08:23
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If the rod is a tip flex style TLS, it might cast better with a line on the heavier end rather than "underlining" is (if it's a 6 rod, go with a 6 or 7 line) I've got a TLS 4 wt. and use a 5 wt line with very positive results. It also depends a lot on the casting style and the length of casts. If you (or your wife cast with a slower more open loop style, a lighter line will probably work better. If distance is what you're after, a heavier WF line is the typical solution, if shorter casts are the norm, a DT line is probably better, as it will usually result in a more delicate presentation, and will load at a shorter distance.
The newest lines on the market are obscenely priced, and I think we're seeing an alarming trend in embellishing the qualities of fly lines. It is my opinion that someone who plays around and gets out 10-20 times a year has no business shelling out the money for the best fly line on the market, because there is a good chance they will never benefit from the qualities that make it that much more expensive (honestly, the costs are mostly profit, with a bit to recover Research and Development). Call me a dinosaur, but I can't see spending $100 on a fly line for rods that I barely spent that much on to build. There are probably as many opinions on this subject as there are lines, though.
I do not like sinking lines, but I don't fish in very deep water very often. If I do, I use a sinking leader but section that is impregnated with tungsten, like the Polyleaders with various sink rates.
My personal favorite lines are the Wulff Triangle Tapers (preferably in olive), although I liked the old ones better than the newer ones -something has changed in the taper, I think. The other big names out there have jillions of specialty tapers and lines, but if you're not fishing 200 days a year, it's best to try to keep it simple, and if at all possible cast one before you buy it. I prefer natural colors - olive and tan or even pale blue to white. there are lots of lines available on the Internet, but they don't offer you the opportunity to actually see what you're getting or give you a human being to look in the eye to tell you what your getting and face you if something is not right. It's also impossible to cast a demo line on the Web, at this time, anyway. But they tell me the technology is being worked on.
Two other things to remember: 1. Seal the ends of your line with some kind of glue - fleximent or Superglue. The core will otherwise wick up water that cannot be extracted and will make your tip sink. 2. Strongly consider tying a semi-permanent butt section of mono or fluorocarbon onto the line with a nail knot. Looped connections are speedy and convenient, but I have seen many, many people casting with them and not realize how much energy and control are lost in the resulting hinge that looped connections can produce. If you then blood knot the butt section to the next segment, or an appropriate sized tapered leader, you have a solid connection that will transfer the energy from the line continuously to the leader in a smooth loop. Check all your knots.
Figure out a code to mark the line with, so you can identify it if you have several and don't remember what's on the reel. Lefty Kreh's recommendation is as good as any - mark with a Sharpie or similar permanent felt tip pen, a thin mark for 1, 2 thin marks for 2, etc. and wide band for 5 - so it would be a short and a wide band for a 6. A DT line will take up much more space on the reel than a WF line, so allow for that when loading backing. Don't wind the line as tight as you can by machine, because if you are winding and unwinding it on the stream you will never pack it as efficiently as the machine does or you can do in the comfort of your home.
Good luck!
Although prequalified by virtue of their brain size, trout have no politics. |
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